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Diapered toddlers run squealing across the grass chased by older siblings while grandparents sit and talk story — the Hawaiian term for shooting the breeze — in lawn chairs placed beneath pop-up canopies.Further west, the highway narrows and as I approach Keawaula Beach, one of O‘ahu’s most spectacular, harbingers of the region’s poverty mar the natural beauty — husks of abandoned cars sit along the road while tarps strung between palms and sea grape trees shelter some of the island’s homeless. “I wanted to see the real O‘ahu.” Before I know it someone has pressed a beer into my hand. ” Still on east coast time, I wake early the next morning to a deep rose-gold sunrise and head out for a run around the Ko Olina lagoons, which were built to replicate O‘ahu’s ancestral fishponds.

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This time he chants a about Hi‘iaka, favorite sister of the fire goddess Pele, who walked to Ka‘ena Point to visit her ancestral 2018" desc="Check out this list of must-dos in Cappadocia and start planning your 2018 balloon escapade!" link=""splendours of Fukushima " desc="Known for its natural beauty, rich culture, and sumptuous food, Fukushima is regarded as an important destination in Japan." link=""before everyone else does " desc="Laos shares much history and unique culture worth checking out, and its relatively low-key nature means it hasn’t become too touristy…yet." link="" if you visit this waterfall at night" desc="Victoria Falls is the largest waterfall by volume with more than 145 million gallons of water spilling over the falls every minute." link=""Standing in the hot sand at the tip of Ka‘ena Point, La‘akea Perry, master teacher at Kei Kai o Kahiki, an all-male hula school, begins to chant, his voice trembling in a lilting vibrato.The words of the , a golden double gourd instrument, as his student, Ka‘ena — who shares the name of the point on which he dances — adopts a stance reminiscent of an ancient warrior.During the journey she chanted an oli of her own, describing the intense effects of the sun’s heat on her body and the landscape — a heat not unlike the one that we encountered during our hike that morning.

Related: Bucket List Road Trip: Seclusion, Surf, and Shrimp on Oahu’s North Shore The word takes shape in the volcanic Wai‘anae Mountains and the vast cerulean Pacific, in tales of ancient ali‘i and in the passion and perseverance of a new generation of cultural practitioners.Nearby, a large monk seal lounged on the porous black rocks that surrounded the pools.Scratching its green-gray girth with a kelp-tinged flipper, it tilted its smiling face toward the sun looking just like my dog when she basks in a warm patch on the driveway.As a descendent of a family that once served King Kamehameha the Great, Auntie Nettie inherited her role as kahu from her mother, who taught her the ancestral traditions. In keeping with that mission, the institute provides space for La‘akea and his hula students to train each week.“Ko Olina is a homestead land,” says Auntie, when I ask her to tell me Lanikuhonua’s story. Their dance style, called ‘ai ha‘a, is extremely strenuous, replicating the moves of an ancient form of martial arts.Driving west on Farrington Highway I pass the low-slung, wooden houses that make up the working class neighborhoods of Nanakuli, Ma‘ili, Wai‘anae, and Makaha, home to the largest percentage native Hawaiians in the archipelago.